Covid-19

Roaming in the Wild: Lessons from a Journey in the Post-Covid World

Friday, July 15, 2022

After returning to Hong Kong from a trip to avoid the fifth wave of Covid-19 in the city, Alejandro Reyes of the Asia Global Institute reflects on what it was like to go from a place with among the most stringent social-distancing and quarantine regimes in the world to countries where people have or at least tried to put the pandemic behind them.

Roaming in the Wild: Lessons from a Journey in the Post-Covid World

Keeping calm and carrying on: Passengers on a London Underground train, April 2022 (Credit: Alejandro Reyes)

As soon as I exited the secure area of London City Airport on February 26, the pandemic culture shock was immediate. I was thrust suddenly into a world where the maskless outnumbered the masked. Hong Kong is rare if not unique in the world in requiring masks most everywhere including outdoors except when you are at home, in your office (unless your workplace requires it), or in a restaurant or bar (for obvious reasons – though you need to put on the mouth-and-nose cover to go to the toilet or fill your plate at the buffet table).

My first flight out of Hong Kong in two years and three weeks – a short hop to Bangkok – had been an all-masked experience, as were the much-longer segment to Zurich (masks required even while sleeping) and the final bit to the UK. But once outside the airport and inside the ticket lobby of the Docklands Light Railway (DLR), I knew I was not in my pandemic “Kansas” anymore. Even though there were tannoy announcements and signs advising people to wear a mask, there were clearly many more not doing so than were abiding by the instruction.

Masks are still required on public transportation in some countries in Europe: Man shall not live on Zoom alone but on every word that comes from the mouth of a friend, colleague or fellow traveler (Credit: Alejandro Reyes)

Masks are still required on public transportation in some countries in Europe: Man shall not live on Zoom alone but on every word that comes from the mouth of a friend, colleague or fellow traveler (Credit: Alejandro Reyes)

The feeling that set in, however, was neither relief at escaping the city that has possibly the most onerous social-distancing requirements anywhere nor exhilaration at liberation from the tyranny of the face mask. In my mind, as I transferred from the DLR to the Jubilee Line and then to the Bakerloo, which includes some of the busiest stations of London’s Tube, there was no question of removing my fresh N95 – I would keep it on tight until I got into my hotel room in Oxford that afternoon.

No, what set in was fear, even terror, coupled with a sense of foreboding. I knew full well that the UK was averaging about 37,000 new Covid-19 cases a day at that time. The day before, Hong Kong reported 10,010 cases, which I reckoned was twice the per-population infection figure of the UK. (Only a week later, on March 4, Hong Kong’s number would ramp up sharply, reaching a pandemic peak of 72,682 infections in a day.)

Going by the numbers and the risk, I should not have been worried. But I was nonetheless afraid that, after avoiding infection for two years, now that I was roaming in the wild in the post-pandemic world of the unmasked, many of whom seemed more than willing to practice social closeness, it would only be a matter of time before I caught Covid – or more to the point, Covid bagged me.

Having made my getaway from Hong Kong’s fifth wave, like everyone else living in this time of Covid, I had to weigh my desire to wander and my newly gained freedom to break out of pandemic routines with the ever-present danger of the disease. Now that I had made it to this land I had heard of that was no longer requiring arrivals to get tested and had no mandatory quarantine, as a fully vaccinated individual, I was willing to take risks. I went to the theater four times while in London, where masking requests at each venue were not enforced. In only one house did the masked outnumber the unmasked. I did the same in New York, where masks were required in theaters. At one performance, because I was participating in a post-curtain discussion and would be removing my face cover for the panel session, I had to have a rapid antigen test before I could enter the theater, watch the play and take the stage.

Safety first - at least indoors: Fire marshals on duty in the foyer of the La Scala opera house in Milan (Credit: Alejandro Reyes)

Safety first - at least indoors: Fire marshals on duty in the foyer of the La Scala opera house in Milan (Credit: Alejandro Reyes)

Now, four months later, I am back in Hong Kong, the city of the everywhere mask mandate. Re-entry was a chore: A week in hotel quarantine and a series of five PCR (including one required no more than 48 hours before boarding my direct flight to Hong Kong) and daily rapid antigen tests. It has been discomfiting to adjust after a period moving around the UK, Europe, the United States and Canada, which to varying degrees have all carried on from the burdensome pandemic-as-priority life and figured out how to keep calm and come to terms with Covid-19, even as they have continued to experience infection spikes. 

As far as I know, I have yet to get Covid. My anxiety about the cat-and-mouse game with the coronavirus has certainly diminished, though in Hong Kong most people who are fully vaccinated (I have had four doses) seem to worry less about getting the coronavirus and more about being whisked away to mandated quarantine or getting advised that you have been in close contact with a case and therefore need to isolate.

What did I learn from my days of being wild and maskless (outdoors)? 

Early on in my escape, I sought isolation in nature – and I do mean isolation. After a couple of days in Oxford, a university town experiencing Covid clusters among students, I headed for the edge of southwestern Wales and the Pembrokeshire coast, where one can hike along cliff-edging trails and meadows, and go hours without seeing anyone or even any livestock.

That was when I gave in to what I would confess to be irrational exuberance. The face covering was off – the bracing wind, drizzle and lingering winter chill were not going to stifle my private joy while meandering maskless around some of the most beautiful countryside in Britain. With each blessed step in the dirt and mud along the trails, I was content and at peace, mindful that at that time, the mask mandate in Hong Kong was in force even if you were doing vigorous exercise outdoors. After a year of tensions due to the street protests in Hong Kong and then the two years of the pandemic and with restlessness from being grounded at my limit (I had not been in one place for so long since I was five years old), it was pleasing just to be in that quiet place alone. Solitude has its rewards.

Among the unmasked after a theater performance, Zurich, April 2022: Did Switzerland even experience a pandemic? (Credit: Alejandro Reyes)

Among the unmasked after a theater performance, Zurich, April 2022: Did Switzerland even experience a pandemic? (Credit: Alejandro Reyes)

As I roamed Europe and North America, I kept working: “Work from home” should really be “work from wherever you like”. So, in most of the cities I visited – and I was in 21 for at least an overnight – I set up a meeting or got together with friends or contacts to catch up or renew acquaintances. I had seen many of these people on Zoom meetings or webinars, where I enjoyed scrutinizing their boxes to assess their online styling and home-office decor. A few with whom I made an appointment had to cancel because they got Covid just before we were to see each other. Some would tell me days or weeks after meeting, that they got infected. Most told me that they had had Covid, some more than once and one person in New York had been infected four times. But all the encounters and reunions, including with people who had been my students years ago, brought a different kind of exhilaration than I felt tramping by myself along the Welsh coast. It was the joy of having company.

Man shall not live on Zoom alone, but on every word that comes from the mouth of a friend, colleague or fellow traveler. I much preferred to have a meeting outside people’s offices in a café or restaurant because then the masks could come off and conversations could be conducted with unmuffled voices at normal volume. I understood why I have yet to come across any student or teacher who has found online education pleasing or satisfying. The work that I do does lend itself to isolation or heavy screen time, but after over two years of distanced discussion and debate, it was a revelation to be face to face again.

Indeed, after two years with my parking brake on, I will admit that I was too swept up by my eagerness to work out the travel bug. The joys of the journey were ample and welcome, whether walking along the banks of the Thames or crossing a bridge over Venice’s Grand Canal at midnight (to avoid the crowds), venturing to St Davids on the southwestern tip of Wales or climbing to the top of the bell tower of the Duomo in Florence, staying put in a cozy bed-and-breakfast (to avoid a packed hotel) or following a relaxed figure-of-eight itinerary around Europe on speedy trains. “It’s all about the journey”, the saying goes. But eventually the Eurail pass will expire and the budget tightens, and the catchups get done. You will have to arrive somewhere – and at that destination, Covid will surely be waiting. There will be another wave. But life must go on. 

Opinions expressed in articles published by AsiaGlobal Online reflect only those of the authors and do not necessarily represent the views of AsiaGlobal Online or the Asia Global Institute

Author

Alejandro Reyes

Alejandro Reyes

Asia Global Institute, The University of Hong Kong

Alejandro Reyes is director of knowledge dissemination and adjunct professor at the Asia Global Institute of The University of Hong Kong. He is a fellow of the Canadian International Council for 2020-22. From 2017 to 2019, he served as senior policy adviser to the assistant deputy minister (Asia Pacific) and co-convenor of the Asia Pacific Policy Hub at Global Affairs Canada, the Canadian foreign ministry. Early in his professional career, he was a journalist with Asiaweek magazine, where his last position was senior correspondent for regional affairs.


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